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Add an ear to your project with this well-designed electret microphone amplifier. This fully assembled and tested board comes with a 20-20KHz electret microphone soldered on. For the amplification, we use the Maxim MAX4466, an op-amp specifically designed for this delicate task! The amplifier has excellent power supply noise rejection, so this amplifier sounds really good and isn't nearly as noisy or scratchy as other mic amp breakouts we've tried!
This breakout is best used for projects such as voice changers, audio recording and audio-reactive projects that use FFT. On the back, we include a small trimmer pot to adjust the gain. You can set the gain from 25x to 125x. That's down to be about 200mVpp (for normal speaking volume about 6" away) which is good for attaching to something that expects 'line level' input without clipping, or up to about 1Vpp, ideal for reading from a microcontroller ADC. The output is rail-to-rail so if the sounds gets loud, the output can go up to 5Vpp!
What's in the box?
1 x GY-MAX4466 Electret Microphone Amplifier Module
Resources
Using it is simple
Connect GND to ground, VCC to 2.4-5VDC.
For the best performance, use the "quietest" supply available (on an for Arduino, this would be the 3.3V supply). The audio waveform will come out of the OUT pin. The output will have a DC bias of VCC/2 so when its perfectly quiet, the voltage will be a steady VCC/2 volts (it is DC coupled). If the audio equipment you're using requires AC coupled audio, place a 100uF capacitor between the output pin and the input of your device. If you're connecting to an audio amplifier that has differential inputs or includes decoupling capacitors, the 100uF cap is not required. The output pin is not designed to drive speakers or anything but the smallest in-ear headphones- you'll need an audio amplifier (such as 3.7W stereo amp) if you want to connect the amp directly to speakers. If you're connecting to a microcontroller pin, you don't need an amplifier or decoupling capacitor - connect the OUT pin directly to the microcontroller ADC pin. For audio-reactive projects, we suggest using an FFT driver library which can take the audio input and 'translate' it into frequencies.
This is split-core current transformer is an AC current sensor. It is used for current measurement, monitor and protection for AC motors, lighting equipment, air compressors, home automation etc.
Features
- Opening size: 13x13mm
- Rated input current (RMS): 10% - 120% of that is 3A - 63A
- Output voltage(RMS): linear output. When the input current is 60A, the output voltage is 1V
- Linearity: ± 3%
- Output connectors: 3.5mm standard three-pin plug
- Lead length: 1 m
What's in the box?
1 x Current sensor
This sensor is perfect for use with our Raspberry Pi RPICT3T1 current and temperature sensor board.
This is a small board with a load switch that allows a Raspberry Pi to automatically temperature control a fan (not included) via GPIO3.
It's an affordable, compact and light way to add smart temperature control to your own Raspberry Pi enclosure or project, and can be used to toggle power for other devices using up to 1A as well.
Compatible with:
What's in the box?
1 x Fan Controller
Resources
How to use
The Fan controller should be connected to the first 6 pins on the header where it uses 5V, GND and GPIO 3 (see images).
To automatically cool your Raspberry Pi when it starts to warm up, add the following to your /boot/config.txt and restart the Pi. You can change the value to make the fan turn on at different temperatures too:
dtoverlay=gpio-fan,gpiopin=3,temp=80000
Note: Raspberry Pi and Fan not included
Protect and showcase your Raspberry Pi with this durable, precision-cut acrylic case. Designed for optimal ventilation and full access to ports, this sleek enclosure keeps your Pi safe while maintaining a clean, modern look. Easy to assemble with included mini screwdriver.
Features
- Compatible with Raspberry Pi 5 and multifunctional adapter
- Sufficient space to fit the Active Cooler
- Transparent panels for visibility and aesthetics
- Ventilation slots for efficient heat dissipation
- Cutouts for all GPIO, USB, HDMI, and power ports
- Lightweight, stackable, and perfect for DIY projects
- Material: Acrylic
- Colour: Transparent (Remove the protective film)
- Requires Customer Assembly
What's in the box?
6 x acrylic plate parts(peel off the protective film on both sides)
4 x M2.5x5+5 standoffs to fit under the Pi screw part facing upwards
4 x M2.5x7 standoffs to fit under the adapter board screw part facing upwards
4 x FF M2.5 x 18 standoff to fit on top of the Pi
2 x FF M2.5x16 Brass standoffs to fit on the outer side of the adapter
2 x FF M2.5x5 brass standoffs to fit on the inner side of the adapter
14 x M2.5x6 screws - 8 for the bottom and 6 for the top of the case
4 x rubber feet
1 x mini screwdriver
Tip: It helps to tighten all the screws only once they have all been fitted loosely in place